Escape pressures of everyday life and find a renewed sense of peace and tranquility in Mexicos Sea of Cortez
If there was ever a time to get away for a spell, this is it. At home in the U.S., were dealing with a recession that wont go away. We are in political turmoil, split down the middle; one half diametrically opposed to the other. Watch the news on television, and what you get is an opinion, usually the flip side ofthe one you hold. Weve shipped our jobs overseas and have an unemployment rate above nine percent, even as high as 17 percent in some regions ofthe country. As a result, our nation ofconsumers are no longer consuming, and our middle class is hanging on by a thread. People are afraid and uptight, with very little light at the end of the tunnel.
So how do you cope? Get out of town! Go somewhere people are not obsessing over things they cannot control.Where do you go for some relief? Mexico. Specifically, the islands of the Sea of Cortez. Thats what we did, and what I would recommend for you if youre feeling bottled up, unable to sleep, drinking Maalox by the quart, and making yourself sick every time you glance at the Dow Jones on your iPhone.
So, how do you get started on your adventure? First of all, dump technology. You wont need it. I didnt see anyone with an iPad or an iPhone. In the eight days we were there, I didnt even see a newspaper. Sometimes, its nice to not know whats going on. The criteria for getting away shouldnt be where other people go; you want to get away from people like yourself. Go where the animals and fish go. This train of thought began as tongue in cheek; however, the more I get into it, the more I believe Im actually onto something.
Linda and I were presented with an opportunity to charter a 47 – foot Power Catamaran through The Moorings charter base in La Paz, Mexico, which is located at Costa Baja Marina. This is a beautiful place. After checking out of our hotel, we went to The Moorings office, which was located on site. We went through a briefing on itineraries, places not to miss, what was expected of us and what we could expect. We then moved to the boat for an orientation and walk – through.
Tom, a captain for The Moorings, went through all the boat systems: Water, plumbing, electrical, how everything worked. The boat itself was spotless and spacious, with its 47 – foot length, 25 – foot beam and 41/2 – foot draft. Youll spend almost no time tied up at the dock, except for a short stint at home base. Once underway, you can expect anchoring out in magnificent coves with white sugar – sand bottoms.
Los Islotes is famous for its sea lion rookery. Snorkelers and scuba divers have been frequenting these rocky outcroppings for years to experience swimming with sea lions and their pups.
Los Islotes are two islets connected by an awash reef with depths down to 60 feet. Because ofthe depth and rocky bottom, I did not want to drop anchor.
Linda insisted she wanted to experience swimming with the sea lions. I backed the boat as close as I thought safe, and Linda dove in. She swam with the pups until an 800 – pound male slid off his rock; it was time to climb back aboard.
The Sea ofCortez offers unlimited experiences you can take advantage of, whether youre chartering or simply looking to explore the region. Sea & Adventures Inc. is a sea kayak and whale watching eco – tour outfitter. Their expeditions along the coast and islands between La Paz and Loreto Bay National Marine Park have been highlighted as the “ultimate Baja California kayaking safari” by National Geographic Adventure magazine. Their expeditions range from self – supported for the more adventurous to skiff – supported expeditions, adding comfort and luxury to your adventure.
We crossed paths with people who were just finishing their fourth kayaking camping trip with Sea Adventures, and could not say enough good things about their experience.
Another option for adventure is Fun Baja, a tour company that can provide an individualized tour package to meet your needs. They offer combination diving and camping trips, scuba certification programs from beginner to advanced, snorkeling with sea lions, as well as whale watching, kayaking and land tours, which take you inside the rustic charm of the Baja peninsula.
Most of the islands youll visit are unpopulated, although there are a few small fishing villages such as San Evaristo, a colorful little island with burros walking the beach, a cantina and a couple of ex – pat liveaboards whove made this place home. Ifyou lived aboard and had no debt, you could probably do quite well —assuming you really liked fish.
The people here are warm and friendly with a sense of community that I envy. The casual dress code includes shorts, flip – flops and maybe a shirt.
One evening we anchored off the northern end of Isla San Francisco, a beautiful white sandy beach. After dropping the anchor and settling in, one – quarter – mile off our stern we noticed a small rocky island with rustic houses perched atop. We looked up the island in our cruising guide, “Isla Coyote,” and it said that visitors were welcome. The next morning, we launched the dingy and headed over.
As we approached the island, three gentlemen standing on the beach waved us in. We introduced ourselves to Manuel “Chacho” Curvas Dias, Jesus Ismael Curvas Collins and Kevin Martin ofVancouver, Washington, a visiting friend. Fortunately, Kevin acted as our translator for the evening; without him, conversation would have been impossible due to the language barrier.
Manuels father made the island home. At one point, they had 40 people living there. The island had a school, and a teacher would come daily to teach.
Today, they fish. This day they had an order for 90 large clams. Local fishermen fish out of their “pangas,” boats specially designed for the Sea ofCortez that are 26 feet long by 5 feet wide by ЗУ2 feet deep. After a tour of the island, Linda invited the men over to our catamaran for drinks later that evening. At 8 p.m., they were tying off their panga and coming aboard.
Chacho explained how he loved living on the island and how much more interesting it was than living in La Paz. He said he got to meet people from all over the world. Jacques Cousteau had been to the island, as well as Chuck Yeager and many others. He said Cousteau really loved the Sea of Cortez, calling it the “aquarium of the world.”
The landscape has been described by some as lunar. If you include the sun in the mix —the brightest Ive ever seen —and the crystal – clear turquoise water, the combination ignites. The breeze is constant; the night sky heavenly. It is truly a magnificent, otherworldly place.