The Beautiful Haul

The myriad benefits of doing boat work in New Zealand
Mount Cook, pristine and sparkling in morning light, is a long way from any cruisers haul out facility. But the image represents the beauty of New Zealands land, people and vistas, which are always close at hand when a cruiser needs an afternoon distraction after toiling in a boatyard. Tracks – Americans call them hiking trails – are webbed throughout the hills and mountains, crossing streams and stopping at waterfalls. Like Captain Cook, a cruiser stepping away from boat projects can put on his tramping shoes, and in a short time climb to a fantastic view over the ocean.

Haul – out facilities of prime concern to a Pacific – crossing cruiser are in three locations, all on the east coast of the North Island. Whichever location is chosen, one thing is certain – for a cruiser of the Pacific, New Zealand is an oasis of western culture and modern facilities.

 POWER PLAY

Before arriving in New Zealand, cruisers intent on making repairs need to be aware that the electrical current is 220 volts. A cruiser requiring 110 shore power to recharge and equalize batteries or run power tools will need a transformer. Not all facilities are concerned about such needs, but Riverside Drive Marina in Whangarei rents a large number of transformers. Sometimes it is easier to buy tools locally and sell them when finished. Trademe.co.nz is a great place to buy and sell tools, boat equipment, cars, bikes – you name it.

ENVIRONMENTAL FACTORS

Facilities in New Zealand have similar environmental concerns as those in the U.S. Unfortunately, most boatyards and tool rental shops do not have the proper dust – collecting sanding tools to assist cruisers in complying with the regulations. So visitors and locals do what they can with store bought tools and tarps hung as shields around projects to contain/dispose of contaminants.

Most New Zealand boatyards are friendly to the “do it yourself” yacht owner and will allow outside contractors without a surcharge. However, those contractors are required to have liability insurance. All responsibility for environmental concerns or accidental damage caused by the outside contractor rests on the shoulders of the yacht owner. A yacht will not be re – launched until all questionable matters are resolved.

COST CONCERNS

Most marine products sold in New Zealand are imported, making them expensive. Add the national 15% Goods and Services Tax and a cruiser will wish he had stopped in American Samoa to stock up.

The New Zealand government understands the economic value in diverting cruisers from other countries, especially to wait out the long southern hemisphere cyclone season. To lessen the burden on a visiting cruiser, parts and supplies that are less expensive in the U.S. can be sent to a “yacht in transit,” avoiding import duties. Additionally, when purchasing local goods and services for a foreign yacht, show ing the “temporary import permit” allows the retailer to avoid charging the GST. Keep in mind that this is an elective that entails paperwork, so a few non – marine retailers choose to charge the tax. Other retailers find it easier to charge the tax but give an equal store discount. And such is the amicable willingness of most of the people in New Zealand. Luckily, the agreeable cost of skilled labor helps offset the high cost of materials.

Repacking a life raft in New Zealand costs a little less than the price of a new life raft. And worse, the repackers do not want a yacht owner watching the testing and repacking process. To escape the insane pricing, repack at a company called RFD in Suva, Fiji. It cost us $80 to have our Givens 4 man raft inspected and repacked while we took pictures.
No matter where in the world a cruiser pays for yacht quality work, defects might still appear; New Zealand is no different. A yacht owner needs to be vigilant and manage the managers rather than wandering off on a holiday expecting perfection and a reasonable bill upon his return.

WHEN TO GO

November and December are the spring rainy months in New Zealand, but they are still the busiest times for newly arrived foreign yachts to haul out and tackle projects. During our 2009 haul out, November and December experienced an unusual drought. Our five weeks of work were delayed by only an intermittent rain shower and one day of more persistent rain.

If not pressed, a cruiser may be better off delaying boat work for economic reasons. The owners of Tracen /, who spent several cyclone seasons in New Zealand, say: “Every season, most boats arrive in November and everyone rushes to the yards to have their long – awaited work done. Suddenly, the yards and boat businesses are at capacity. By mid – March, April and May, the contractors and work crews have slack time. In those months its easier and quicker to get repair work done, and in an effort to keep crews busy, quotes are more aggressive.
OPUA
Opua is the northernmost port of entry in New Zealand, located in the Bay of Islands – the most beautiful cruising grounds of the North Island. The harbor is a snug, well – protected place where a yacht can drop an anchor, take up a mooring or tie to a floating dock in a marina. Opua has yacht facilities and skilled craftsmen capable of doing any work a cruiser could possibly need.

Opua is a large marina complex, but little else. All facilities and the few retail operations are located along a thin strip of land following the waterfront. There is one travel lift in Opua, at Ashbys Boatyard. The 50 met ric ton machine is not wide enough for multihulls, but can pull yachts up to 70 feet, including appendages. A 40 – foot boat would cost around $200 for a haul – out and launch and $20 per day to sit on the hard.

Pahia, a small tourist town, is four miles away from Opua. It has the nearest sizeable grocery and hard – ware store. A $4 van trip will get you there and back. The alternative is a pleasant two – hour tramp along the coastal track. One uphill turn leads to an overlook of the most historically significant waters of northern New Zealand, where early French and British explorers had bouts of friendship and violent disagreements with the native Maoris. The coastal track passes through an interesting rail haul – out facility. Visiting Dougs Boat Yard in Opua, one would think they were in a small sound in Maine. Doug, a transplant from southern California, aims to keep that quiet atmosphere – he has no website and only wants word of mouth customers. His railway can haul a 40 – foot, 15 – ton boat. Careening in the seven to nine – foot tide alongside the dock costs $15. Great for changing propellers, zincs or other quick underwater work.

WHANGAREI

The most widespread exposure for luring cruisers to New Zealand is presented by a consortium of marine establishments in Whangarei, 75 nautical miles to the south of Opua. From seaward, a cruising yacht destined for Whangarei must negotiate a snaking 12 – mile waterway. The inland passage should be navigated at high tide. Although the upper reaches of the channel are dredged annually, a six – foot draft yacht might come close to the mud bottom in several narrow spots.

Americans would consider Whangarei a nice, orderly town with all the benefits – but none of the hassles – of a big city, while New Zealanders consider Whangarei the biggest thing happening north of Auckland. Haul – out and dockage expenses are a little higher than at Opua, but are offset by the convenience of stores, shops and marine facilities. As the owner of the large catamaran Zen stated: “I like having options when working with boat contractors, and the only other place on the North Island that offered this wide selection was Auckland. Price quotes from Auckland proved that Whangarei was more competitive and in tune with the cruiser market.”

In the light industrial area of downtown Whangarei, there are rows of steel – roofed buildings divided into shops for paint, engines, electronics, canvas, anchor galvanizing, nuts and bolts, and anything else you can imagine. Nearly everything in Whangarei is within an easy walk of the town basin and Riverside Drive Marina, which has been owned by Ray Roberts for more than 30 years. One of his first contracts was to build the historic Wanderer V for Eric and Susan Hiscock. Ray is always available to offer advice, and his lift is capable of hauling almost any cruising monohull.

In Whangarei, Dockland 5 and Norsand are farmland – sized facilities that can haul even the widest multihulls. As they are located on the outskirts of town, it would be helpful to have inexpensive transportation. Because of parking, a car could be a burden. A bicycle and good backpack would be a more productive means of getting around town. We bought our $35 15 – speed bicycles at the Friday auction across from the Warehouse department store. Negotiating the roads of New Zealand on a bike proved to be great conditioning for eventually operating a car on the left side of the road without scaring the daylights out of the locals.

When a cruiser is not refurbishing his floating home, he needs to restore his atrophied body. Tramping the scenic route through rainforests and over streams, the Parihaka track leads to a high peak overlooking Whangarei. An out of shape cruiser will puff his way to the summit in 45 minutes, but after hiking the route every other day, the familiar turns will start to blur by in less than 25 minutes.

AUCKLAND

There are some cruisers who feel more refreshed sitting amongst the fluorescent lights and bustle of the city. Auckland has all the glitz and ease one can ask of a city, including a convenient haul – out. Pier 21 is located in the middle of thousands of docked yachts, so there is no need for marinas to solicit foreign business, but international cruisers are certainly welcome.

Hauling out in Auckland costs a little more than hauling out in Whangarei, but hard – working yacht owners are only steps from an endless assortment of marine chandleries and yacht facilities. A bit further on is the Americas Cup Village, which is always a busy attraction. And of course the best view around is from the Sky City tower, where a cruiser can take his first Kiwi leap from a very tall object and feel like he is flying, if only for a little while.

Owners of cruising multihull yachts have a more difficult time hauling out in Auckland. The one facility available is located at Gulf Harbour Marina on the Whangaparaoa Peninsula, 13 nautical miles from downtown Auckland and at least a 40 minute drive by road and bridges.

We are fortunate that Captain Cook and other British explorers stood atop these high hills and bestowed the English language on so many South Pacific islands. Those early explorers made it possible for New Zealand to be the greatest promise land of all.