As writer Bruce Berger notes in his acclaimed 1998 book “Almost an Island,” most written work about Mexicos Baja California peninsula has focused on the regions natural wonders.

With more than 30 species of marine mammal and 500 species of fish making their homes here, some of which are found nowhere else in the world, the peninsulas Pacific and Gulf of California waters offer world – class scuba diving, snorkeling, sea – kayaking, whale – watching, fishing and recreational boating.
And then theres the otherworldly Sonoran Desert, with its banded volcanic mountains, oddly green high sierra, hidden box canyons and sweeping arroyos. The landscape proves to be a haven for mountain bikers, backpackers, hikers, RVing families, ATV devotees and those intrepid explorers bound for the celebrated Sierra de San Francisco cave paintings with local guides and mules.
Theyre all coming to experience “Baja” —that unique place of unparalleled adventure, a stunning natural juxtaposition where the desert tumbles to meet the tropical sea.
This Baja, however, is what Berger calls a hard – edged mirage. To truly experience the heart and soul of this place, you need to get to know its people.
“To approach the goal of conjuring the peninsula whole in my mind” Berger writes of his own travels in the region, “I needed to pass through Baja to Baja California.”
The best way to discover the real Baja California is to spend a few days in La Paz, capital of the Mexican state of Baja California Sur. Located just 100 miles north of the more famous Los Cabos corridor, this bustling, friendly seaport has managed to retain its laid – back, muy tranquilo character even in the face of increasing development and a population explosion.
Brightly painted colonial architecture adorns the historic centro with its narrow zigzag streets, and the waterfront resembles a seaside European boulevard with its five – kilometer – long malecon seawall promenade, open – air restaurants, sidewalk cafes and venerable hotels.
A modest fleet of colorful fishing pangas rests on the beach, with fishermen ready to supply fresh seafood to the citys myriad restaurants and taco stands or to carry visitors to see whale sharks in the bay, to swim with sea lions at the Los Islotes colony or to explore Isla Espiritu Santo, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and Biosphere Reserve north of the city.
First tip: Stay in town, perhaps at the Seven Crown, the Hotel Perla or El Moro. The citys centro is quite walkable, and its vibe will enchant you.
Second tip: Rent a car so you can enjoy the many pleasures just a short drive away. Dont worry about parking; at most public lots, 20 pesos —less than $2 —will buy unlimited time.
Enjoy your morning cup of coffee and a plate of huevos rancheros or chilaquiles at Hotel Perlas La Terraza restaurant, a gracious, open – air, waterfront establishment. Or, if you prefer to make your own coffee, visit Ramon at Cafe Batalla, just past the intersection of Calle Zaragoza and Avenida Independencia. Ask for “dos molinas, revuelto,” and savor the flavors of Veracruzean coffee.
Drive 10 kilometers to Playa Balandra, near the tip of the Pichilingue Peninsula, and hike around the northern rim of the bay; a delightful, hidden beach with sugar sand and turquoise water is just around the corner, adorned with La Pazs iconic “mushroom rock.” While crowds can be heavy on weekends, you might be the only one there on a midweek morning.
Stop at Playa Tecolote, which faces the San Lorenzo Channel and Isla Espiritu Santo. The surf might be up, the water will be warm, and the fish tacos are nothing short of spectacular at the beach restaurant.
Or take a drive down to Bahia de Los Muertos, more recently christened Bahia de Los Suenos —”dreams” is apparently easier to promote than “the dead.” Despite new home development and a nearby golf course, you likely will have the beach to yourself, with only the local fishing pangas and a few cruising sailboats for company.
If you desire a weekend beach outing but dont want to brave the crowds, drive around the Bahia de La Paz and then head north on the coast road toward San Juan de La Costa. Around kilometer 23, youll see little public beaches tucked below the cliffs. These are good spots for shelling and enjoying the quiet.
For the adventurous: Hike up the box canyon at kilometer 20.
Back in La Paz, sit outside Cafe Exquisito with a cafe con leche, or visit nearby La Fuente for an ice cream. Just look for the polka – dot tree, and be prepared for a startling array of flavors —including the cactus fruit pitahaya.
Saturday is prime time to enjoy a sunset or evening stroll on the malecon. This is, without question, the throbbing pulse of the city.
Then there are the cultural events and performances at the Teatro de la Ciudad or one of the citys universities; the art galleries; the Museo de Antropologia; and the lovely Plaza Constitucion, which incorporates the 1861 Catedral de Nuestra Senora de La Paz and the Biblioteca de Historia de Las Californias.
Dont miss the lobster tacos at the Bismark – cito taco stand on the malecon or the fried oysters at Moyeyos, next door to popular sea – kayak outfitter Baja Outdoor Activities. Have a tequila or a cold cerveza at the appropriately named watering hole Tequilas, just a block off the waterfront.
And take a little drive to the village – come – suburb of El Centenario to El Comitan, where youll find a small restaurant on Calle 3 named Menys. It looks humble, but the Durango – born chef, whos been a Paceno for nearly three decades, will delight you with first – class fare at affordable prices. Try the Chateaubriand or the pollo naranja, the Caesar salad and the platano dessert. The tableside preparation alone is worth the price of admission.
A final tip: Wherever you go, talk to people. Pacenos are warm and friendly, theyll tell you “Tenga un buen dia” and mean it, and they all will want to know if youre enjoying their beloved city.
To learn more about La Paz, visit the citys official website at lapaz – tourism.com and the popular web magazine bajainsider.com.