Manistee Municipal Marina

New marina building breathes life into this convenient spot.
Manistee Municipal Marina
480 River St. Manistee, MI 49660 231-723-1552 ci.manistee.mi.us
Amenities
Transient slips: Y Pump – out: Y Gas: Y Diesel: Y Lifts: Nearby Launch ramp: Nearby Engine repair: Nearby
Hull repair: No Marine store: Nearby Restaurant: Nearby Grocery: Nearby
Showers: Y Laundry Facility: Y WiFi: Y
Smack dab in the center of downtown Manistee, Michigan, Manistee Municipal Marina is perfectly positioned along the towns riverwalk, just a quarter – mile east of Lake Michigan and less than a mile west of Manistee Lake.
The marina dates back to the 1970s and has seen continuous upgrades ever since, the most recent being the brand – new, nearly $1 million marina building that opened in June 2011. Despite construction hiccups that stretched the project an extra year —which meant the 2010 season was a bit difficult for visitors —the end result made it well worth the wait.
“Its an absolutely stunning structure,” says Dave Bachman, Manistee harbormaster and marina manager. “When you come up the river, its eye – catching and architecturally the best – looking building on the river.”
The interior is right in line with the exterior. Theres a boaters lounge and a kids lounge, both with flat screen TVs and Blu – ray players. There are eight private shower suites, plus washer and dryer facilities.
Plenty of other perks abound, including free wireless Internet, which Bachman says is one of the buildings most popular features. The nearby casino offers a free shuttle, and a dial – a – ride service takes guests anywhere in the county during the day for just $1.
The marina is in such a prime location, however, that a ride may not be necessary. It is within easy walking distance of all downtown Manistees restaurants, shops, grocery stores, museums and bars, and there are beautiful sugar – sand beaches where the river meets Lake Michigan.
Universal access is important throughout the city of Manistee, and thats evident at the marina as well.
“Were the only marina in Michigan that Im aware of that has a handicapped lift for boaters,” Bachman says.
Theres plenty of room for boaters, too. Of the marinas 36 slips —plus 300 feet ofbroadside dockage —some 29 slips are typically available for transients. Reservations can be made online through the Michigan DNR reservation system and are recommended.
Still, Bachman says, “We always maintain float – in space and only rarely turn anyone away.”
The marina also can take boats up to 60 feet in its slips, and up to 100 feet along the wall. Bachman says.
Theres plenty of room for boaters, too. Of the marinas 36 slips —plus 300 feet ofbroadside dockage —some 29 slips are typically available for transients. Reservations can be made online through the Michigan DNR reservation system and are recommended.
Still, Bachman says,

Sea Ray 410 Sundancer

Flexibility is the mantra with Sea Rays newest in their Sport Yacht series, the 2012 Sea Ray 410 Sundancer. “The 410 is really a transition size from our Sport Cruiser line to the Sport Yachts, so we emphasize flexibility in this premium brand,” says Rob Noyes, Sea Rays director of marketing. Various options the 410 Sundancer provides include exterior design features, engine selection and interior layout, so you can create a boat to suit your specific needs.
The most noticeable malleable feature is the cabin top, which comes in three flavors: The standard sport arch and canvas, optional open hardtop with canvas, or optional enclosed hardtop with electric front vents and available sunroof. Whether youre up for lots of sun and breeze or want the protection and comfort of an air – conditioned or heated helm area, you have a choice.
The second major consideration is propulsion. The 410 Sundancer is available in diesel only and comes with standard twin 425 – hp Cummins MerCruiser Diesel QSB 8.3 425 V – drives. You also can opt for twin diesel engines with Zeus pod drives and a helm joystick. The Zeus option adds a bit more to the base price, but its a feature that builds confidence even in new boaters who are looking for control and easy maneuvering in tight quarters.
Below, the Sea Ray 410 provides another place to customize your new vessel. The bright interior comes standard with one stateroom and two heads. The master forward includes a full – size island berth with Visco foam mattress and an electrically activated backrest that allows for comfortable viewing of the 22 – inch flat screen TV. A head compartment with separate shower stall has a VacuFlush toilet and its own entrance from this cabin.
The galley amidships offers a stainless steel refrigerator/ freezer, two – burner stove and a microwave. Its location fits nicely into the salon that also has a large sofa and table. Just aft is a standard dinette with a fold – down table, but this area also can be made into a second cabin with a pocket door and two single berths.
So many variables in a production boat are rare and highlight Sea Rays attention to owner feedback. There are many features that come standard, including an Onan 9 kW genset, anchor washdown, nearly 150 square feet of storage throughout and more. But in case youre not done personalizing your Sundancer 410, consider other options such as air conditioning, six interior finishes, additional TVs and DVD players, rod holders and a sun pad with an adjustable backrest on the forward deck.
The 410 Sundancer joins Sea Rays other 40 models ranging from 17 to 60 feet that are manufactured in the companys Knoxville, Tennessee, headquarters.
“The 410 replaces the 390 Sundancer,” adds Noyes. “We sell boats into many markets and need to think about all the different ways owners will use them.”

SEA CHANGE

Escape pressures of everyday life and find a renewed sense of peace and tranquility in Mexicos Sea of Cortez
If there was ever a time to get away for a spell, this is it. At home in the U.S., were dealing with a recession that wont go away. We are in political turmoil, split down the middle; one half diametrically opposed to the other. Watch the news on television, and what you get is an opinion, usually the flip side ofthe one you hold. Weve shipped our jobs overseas and have an unemployment rate above nine percent, even as high as 17 percent in some regions ofthe country. As a result, our nation ofconsumers are no longer consuming, and our middle class is hanging on by a thread. People are afraid and uptight, with very little light at the end of the tunnel.
So how do you cope? Get out of town! Go somewhere people are not obsessing over things they cannot control.
Where do you go for some relief? Mexico. Specifically, the islands of the Sea of Cortez. Thats what we did, and what I would recommend for you if youre feeling bottled up, unable to sleep, drinking Maalox by the quart, and making yourself sick every time you glance at the Dow Jones on your iPhone.
So, how do you get started on your adventure? First of all, dump technology. You wont need it. I didnt see anyone with an iPad or an iPhone. In the eight days we were there, I didnt even see a newspaper. Sometimes, its nice to not know whats going on. The criteria for getting away shouldnt be where other people go; you want to get away from people like yourself. Go where the animals and fish go. This train of thought began as tongue in cheek; however, the more I get into it, the more I believe Im actually onto something.
Linda and I were presented with an opportunity to charter a 47 – foot Power Catamaran through The Moorings charter base in La Paz, Mexico, which is located at Costa Baja Marina. This is a beautiful place. After checking out of our hotel, we went to The Moorings office, which was located on site. We went through a briefing on itineraries, places not to miss, what was expected of us and what we could expect. We then moved to the boat for an orientation and walk – through.
Tom, a captain for The Moorings, went through all the boat systems: Water, plumbing, electrical, how everything worked. The boat itself was spotless and spacious, with its 47 – foot length, 25 – foot beam and 41/2 – foot draft. Youll spend almost no time tied up at the dock, except for a short stint at home base. Once underway, you can expect anchoring out in magnificent coves with white sugar – sand bottoms.
Los Islotes is famous for its sea lion rookery. Snorkelers and scuba divers have been frequenting these rocky outcroppings for years to experience swimming with sea lions and their pups.
Los Islotes are two islets connected by an awash reef with depths down to 60 feet. Because ofthe depth and rocky bottom, I did not want to drop anchor.
Linda insisted she wanted to experience swimming with the sea lions. I backed the boat as close as I thought safe, and Linda dove in. She swam with the pups until an 800 – pound male slid off his rock; it was time to climb back aboard.
The Sea ofCortez offers unlimited experiences you can take advantage of, whether youre chartering or simply looking to explore the region. Sea & Adventures Inc. is a sea kayak and whale watching eco – tour outfitter. Their expeditions along the coast and islands between La Paz and Loreto Bay National Marine Park have been highlighted as the “ultimate Baja California kayaking safari” by National Geographic Adventure magazine. Their expeditions range from self – supported for the more adventurous to skiff – supported expeditions, adding comfort and luxury to your adventure.
We crossed paths with people who were just finishing their fourth kayaking camping trip with Sea Adventures, and could not say enough good things about their experience.
Another option for adventure is Fun Baja, a tour company that can provide an individualized tour package to meet your needs. They offer combination diving and camping trips, scuba certification programs from beginner to advanced, snorkeling with sea lions, as well as whale watching, kayaking and land tours, which take you inside the rustic charm of the Baja peninsula.
Most of the islands youll visit are unpopulated, although there are a few small fishing villages such as San Evaristo, a colorful little island with burros walking the beach, a cantina and a couple of ex – pat liveaboards whove made this place home. Ifyou lived aboard and had no debt, you could probably do quite well —assuming you really liked fish.
The people here are warm and friendly with a sense of community that I envy. The casual dress code includes shorts, flip – flops and maybe a shirt.
One evening we anchored off the northern end of Isla San Francisco, a beautiful white sandy beach. After dropping the anchor and settling in, one – quarter – mile off our stern we noticed a small rocky island with rustic houses perched atop. We looked up the island in our cruising guide, “Isla Coyote,” and it said that visitors were welcome. The next morning, we launched the dingy and headed over.
As we approached the island, three gentlemen standing on the beach waved us in. We introduced ourselves to Manuel “Chacho” Curvas Dias, Jesus Ismael Curvas Collins and Kevin Martin ofVancouver, Washington, a visiting friend. Fortunately, Kevin acted as our translator for the evening; without him, conversation would have been impossible due to the language barrier.
Manuels father made the island home. At one point, they had 40 people living there. The island had a school, and a teacher would come daily to teach.
Today, they fish. This day they had an order for 90 large clams. Local fishermen fish out of their “pangas,” boats specially designed for the Sea ofCortez that are 26 feet long by 5 feet wide by ЗУ2 feet deep. After a tour of the island, Linda invited the men over to our catamaran for drinks later that evening. At 8 p.m., they were tying off their panga and coming aboard.
Chacho explained how he loved living on the island and how much more interesting it was than living in La Paz. He said he got to meet people from all over the world. Jacques Cousteau had been to the island, as well as Chuck Yeager and many others. He said Cousteau really loved the Sea of Cortez, calling it the “aquarium of the world.”
The landscape has been described by some as lunar. If you include the sun in the mix —the brightest Ive ever seen —and the crystal – clear turquoise water, the combination ignites. The breeze is constant; the night sky heavenly. It is truly a magnificent, otherworldly place.

Looking Ahead

Understanding weather is more than just knowing if youre going to have a sunny day out on the water. Weather is inextricably linked to boating; it behooves boaters to fully understand it so they can stay safe and not get caught in a potentially dangerous situation.
Anyone can tell you what the weathers like by simply looking out the window, but the real trick is to be able to look forward, or forecast, with some degree of accuracy whats likely to happen in the future —be it the next day, week or month.
Most folks are familiar with the television news or radio weather forecasts, but these reports are brief and cover a large general area. As such, they wind up being of limited value to boaters.
NOAA
If you know where to look, theres a bewildering array of weather information available to boaters, and much of its free. NOAA is the government agency that provides weather information to other agencies and individuals. Their website can be hard to navigate, but theres plenty of information available —everything a boater could want and then some.
NOAA provides dedicated small craft weather forecasts, which have information that includes wave heights, visibility and expected wind. Its also possible to download synoptic charts for free, and these can be a boon —but only ifyouknowwhat youre looking at. Ive found the best approach is to spend time at home or the office looking at the NOAA website, find links that are most appropriate to me and save these to my smart phone, so I can update my information on a regular basis while Im out on the boat.
XM weather
This only works ifIm in cell range, however. For reliable weather information offshore, its best to use satellites. The best known source is the XM weather service, which is subscription – based and costs between $10 and $50 per month, depending on the amount and detail of information required. In addition to paying the monthly service fee, you also need a compatible receiver. For many boaters, its possible to integrate XM weather into their chartplotters or multi – function displays.
Despite advances in modern – day technology, good ol sailors wisdom still holds water. “Red sky at night, sailors delight; red sky in the morning, sailors take warning” and “When rain comes before the wind, halyards, sheets and braces mind; but when wind comes before rain, soon you may make sail again,” are just two examples.
Its easy to dismiss these rhymes as folklore, but theres a lot of truth to them. In the days of clipper ships, there was virtually no way to forecast weather. Ship captains had to rely on their own knowledge and experience.
Barometers
Apart from making observations about the wind and sky, keeping an accurate barometer aboard is a useful forecasting tool; sadly, however, theyre often treated as little more than a bulkhead ornament. But barometers can provide boaters with useful information.
Most barometers have designations on the face such as “fair,” “cloudy,” “stormy,” and so on. Honestly, these are more for decoration than anything else. To be of use to the yachtsman, readings from the barometer should be taken at regular intervals, say, every hour, and then readings recorded in a log book. From there, the captain can form a clearer mental picture of what the weather is likely to do. A sudden drop in barometric pressure over a few hours time almost always foretells unsettled weather is coming.
Theres no doubt about it: Weather is a fascinating subject, and one that has a huge impact on the lives of boaters. One book I can recommend for further study is “The Yachtsmans Weather Guide” by Ingrid Holford. This book has been in print for some years now, but its interesting reading and does a good job showing you how to make sense of all those squiggly lines on a weather chart.

Formula 290 FX4

When Formula introduced its new lineup, the first ofthe series was the 290 FX4. Designer John Adams pulled out all the stops and created a sleek head – turner with retro lines like a stylish roadster and all the power of a contemporary race car. Combined with Formulas attention to detail, the result is a fast, posh and good looking new sport boat that will give pause to even the most advanced European designers.
For 2012, this performance focusedline also features larger models, includingthe 310 FX5, 350 FX6, 370 FX7 and400 FX8.
The 290 FX4 hull transitions smoothly from a high bow to a low transom. The Imron FX graphic and silver diamond pearl paint is optional, but both add to the retro look. A continuous tinted, tempered curved – glass windshield provides a center walkthrough and an easy transition from the molded steps next to the helm to the nonskid center walkway on deck leading to the concealed fiberglass anchor locker. Impressive design elements include stainless rails over the intake vents and the concealed air horn in the port vent.
The helm exudes old – style class and looks as if James Bond himself might suddenly appear clad in a smoking jacket, volunteering his services as your personal driver. The carbon fiber and clear overlay dash features a tilt steering wheel in silver or blue with chrome accents. Livorsi Oversized Mega gauges and tachs gleam in their bezels, and illuminated rocker switches and chrome shifters/throttles complete a neat and organized helm.
The cockpit is a continuous molded liner also treated with high gloss silver diamond pearl metallic paint finish. The dual helm seat starboard is just ahead of a U – shaped lounge with a built – in Igloo cooler and a hi/lo table that
transforms this space into a sunpad. Another lounge pad is aft between the fender storage compartment starboard and a portside transom walkthrough from the swim platform. On port is an entertainment center with a sink, another Igloo cooler, trash bin and a safety rail. A bench seat to port completes an exterior layout that makes this boat feel much longer than 29 feet, and liberal use of blue LED accent lighting makes it positively glow in the dark.
The cabin of the 29 – footer features an Ultraleather covered V – shape lounge, full entertainment center with a Clarion stereo and an optional TV/DVD mounted on the forward bulkhead. The center table drops down to make a berth. To starboard is a head compartment with Corian countertops. Entry is via a sliding and lockable companionway hatch. The steps and cabinetry are finished in a warm cherry wood grain, and there is plenty oflight and air flowing through two overhead Bomar hatches.
Plenty of power is provided by twin Mercury 320 hp 377 engines with Bravo III outdrives. The engine cover is electric and when lifted provides good access all around.
Top speed for the 290 FX4 is right around 55 mph, with the engines burning about 50 gallons per hour. At a cruising speed of 30 mph, you can expect a range of 160 miles.
The Formula 290 FX4 is a speedy and sporty machine that will get you wherever youre going —in a hurry. But its Formulas finish and flair that will start everyone on the dock talking.

Cruisers 41 Cantius

A true groundbreaking Great Lakes design.
When Jon Viestenz, product and regional sales manager for Cruisers Yachts, told me the companys new 41 Cantius had some trend – setting differences, he wasnt kidding. I met up with Viestenz and Gene Gooding, the Cruisers sales rep from Ohio, at SkipperBuds in Sturgeon Bay, Wisconsin, on a fine late August morning, where they were preparing to sea trial and photograph this beauty.
From stem to stern, the 41 Cantius had some never – before – seen features and an overall feeling ofthe “next step” for people desirous of a cruiser thats affordable to run. It packed a lot —two staterooms and two heads —into a 41 – foot boat, while still delivering lots of living space.”When you think of 40 – footers, theres just so much difference in this design that weve created a segment that isnt out there yet,” Viestenz said in the course of walking me through. While the nice, innovative details are manifold, the big difference Viestenz was talking about is the open layout, effectively combining an express cruiser design with an aft cabin —although the second cabin is more amidships. The boat can be as open and airy as you want, or as cozy and protected from the elements as you need. With sliding doors open, folks in the cockpit are in easy contact with people forward, but on the same level around the helm. Airiness is created with a giant sunroof that slides open, plus power – actuated vents to port and starboard.
“We wanted that express – style feeling that brings lots of outside inside,” Viestenz said.
But the first thing anyone would probably notice about this boat when seeing it for the first time are two bar stools on the swim platform. Talk about a feature that likely has other boatbuilders slapping collective foreheads and wondering why they didnt think of it first. The concept makes great use of a space that tends to be vacant when a boat is docked at the marina. The two easily removable seats provide a place to sip a beverage with an actual bartop on the transom. This lifts to expose a large storage unit that can handle four big fenders and is dedicated storage for the cockpit table pedestals.
You can tell this boat was designed with lots of input from actual boaters. Underneath the bartop/storage lid are clips for your long – handle scrub brush, and on the sides of the storage compartment are hooks for lines. LED lights provide illumination and accent lighting for the platform, too, and the washdown hook – up also is in this compartment.
Cool stuffensues as you head forward into the cockpit, where the port seat doubles as a sun lounge. Lift the sun lounges padded end that serves as a pillow, and you find a compartment with a medium – size, easily removable wastebasket underneath. Also underneath the lounge is dedicated storage for the cockpits two table tops. Set both up for dining, or just one when you want more floor space.
Starboard is a fiberglass storage component that provides stowage, but also allows you to install a cockpit grill and an ice maker, or a side – by – side refrigerator/freezer.
Viestenz lifted the engine room hatch on the cockpit sole while talking about the boats power.
“This boat is powered by twin D6, Volvo 370 horse sterndrives.”
Wait a minute. Sterndrives in a 40 – footer?
“Yes; we dont even offer inboards as an option,” Viestenz said. “You also can get IPS drives, but inboards arent as efficient and wont work with a joystick. The customer for this boat is going to be younger and going to want the latest technology.”
The engine room offered is surprisingly, well, roomy. Headroom was 50 inches, and the space was well lit, with ample room between the power plants for regular checks. Down here is where youll find the Kohler 13.5 kW generator, which is standard —and bigger than what many boats of similar size offer. Everything is nicely labeled here to boot.
The sole of our test boat was real teak; options include carpet and synthetic Flexiteek. Viestenz noted another design goal was to eliminate canvas. Although a camper canvas is optional, most users will enjoy not having to snap anything over the cockpit to protect the vinyl seating material. Instead, each piece offurniture has its own cover that easily slides over.
As you step through the sliding doors toward the helm station, you see the portside, U – shaped sofa that provides seating for three or four passengers who can chat with the pilot while underway, or just use the interior space while at the marina for dining and relaxing. With the door open, this space effectively integrates with the outside cockpit, meaning folks inside can chat with folks outside.
Below, the forward master stateroom offers a queen island berth, plenty ofstorage and six feet, nine inches ofheadroom —seven feet at the foot ofthe bed. Viestenz pointed out that all ofthe flooring is fiberglass —no plywood anywhere. The master head provides full – standing headroom, separate shower and opening port holes for natural light and ventilation.
The midship guest stateroom features split bunk accommodations. After Viestenz demonstrated how easily these bunks convert into a queen berth, he showed how the systems wiring can be accessed behind panels on the bulkheads. All wiring is clearly labeled, too. This berth has a private head with separate vanity.
The galley somewhat separates the cook from the rest of the party topside, but the overwhelming positive aspects to this Cantius design make up for it. The galley boasts plenty of counter space, a convection/microwave oven, big sink and two – burner stovetop.
We took the boat for a cruise toward the Bay of Green Bay, which the boat had traversed through five – and six – footers the day before to get to the dealer confab at Sturgeon Bay. The yacht performed politely with its twin outdrives and got on plane with minimal bow lift. Ifyou wanted to get somewhere quickly, you could. We achieved 40 mph and cruised quickly, getting more than a mile per gallon at 35 mph. Trimming the outdrives made a difference; trimmed up, we were burning 31 gallons per hour, and trimmed down we fed the twin diesels at a rate of 33 gallons per hour. The boat handled extremely well, and was easy to dock with the joystick.
Cruisers has a long tradition of boatbuilding, starting in Peshtigo, Wisconsin, back in 1904 as the Thompson Brothers Boat Manufacturing Company, which evolved into a factory with a15,000 – square – foot indoor factory showroom in Oconto, Wisconsin. Tradition seems as important as customer care and service, and the whole company exudes a feeling offamily. For instance, the boats name originates from the first name ofcurrent CEO Casey Stocks father, Cantius. It was chosen through an employee contest, Viestenz said.
As a maker of yachts near the Great Lakes, you can bet Cruisers Yachts creations take into account how good design can lengthen a short boating season with cold – weather considerations, too.
Theres a lot more to say about this model. Make sure you request a thorough sea trial at one of Cruisers Great Lakes dealers.

The Beautiful Haul

The myriad benefits of doing boat work in New Zealand
Mount Cook, pristine and sparkling in morning light, is a long way from any cruisers haul out facility. But the image represents the beauty of New Zealands land, people and vistas, which are always close at hand when a cruiser needs an afternoon distraction after toiling in a boatyard. Tracks – Americans call them hiking trails – are webbed throughout the hills and mountains, crossing streams and stopping at waterfalls. Like Captain Cook, a cruiser stepping away from boat projects can put on his tramping shoes, and in a short time climb to a fantastic view over the ocean.

Haul – out facilities of prime concern to a Pacific – crossing cruiser are in three locations, all on the east coast of the North Island. Whichever location is chosen, one thing is certain – for a cruiser of the Pacific, New Zealand is an oasis of western culture and modern facilities.

POWER PLAY

Before arriving in New Zealand, cruisers intent on making repairs need to be aware that the electrical current is 220 volts. A cruiser requiring 110 shore power to recharge and equalize batteries or run power tools will need a transformer. Not all facilities are concerned about such needs, but Riverside Drive Marina in Whangarei rents a large number of transformers. Sometimes it is easier to buy tools locally and sell them when finished. Trademe.co.nz is a great place to buy and sell tools, boat equipment, cars, bikes – you name it.

ENVIRONMENTAL FACTORS

Facilities in New Zealand have similar environmental concerns as those in the U.S. Unfortunately, most boatyards and tool rental shops do not have the proper dust – collecting sanding tools to assist cruisers in complying with the regulations. So visitors and locals do what they can with store bought tools and tarps hung as shields around projects to contain/dispose of contaminants.

Most New Zealand boatyards are friendly to the “do it yourself” yacht owner and will allow outside contractors without a surcharge. However, those contractors are required to have liability insurance. All responsibility for environmental concerns or accidental damage caused by the outside contractor rests on the shoulders of the yacht owner. A yacht will not be re – launched until all questionable matters are resolved.

COST CONCERNS

Most marine products sold in New Zealand are imported, making them expensive. Add the national 15% Goods and Services Tax and a cruiser will wish he had stopped in American Samoa to stock up.

The New Zealand government understands the economic value in diverting cruisers from other countries, especially to wait out the long southern hemisphere cyclone season. To lessen the burden on a visiting cruiser, parts and supplies that are less expensive in the U.S. can be sent to a “yacht in transit,” avoiding import duties. Additionally, when purchasing local goods and services for a foreign yacht, show ing the “temporary import permit” allows the retailer to avoid charging the GST. Keep in mind that this is an elective that entails paperwork, so a few non – marine retailers choose to charge the tax. Other retailers find it easier to charge the tax but give an equal store discount. And such is the amicable willingness of most of the people in New Zealand. Luckily, the agreeable cost of skilled labor helps offset the high cost of materials.

Repacking a life raft in New Zealand costs a little less than the price of a new life raft. And worse, the repackers do not want a yacht owner watching the testing and repacking process. To escape the insane pricing, repack at a company called RFD in Suva, Fiji. It cost us $80 to have our Givens 4 man raft inspected and repacked while we took pictures.
No matter where in the world a cruiser pays for yacht quality work, defects might still appear; New Zealand is no different. A yacht owner needs to be vigilant and manage the managers rather than wandering off on a holiday expecting perfection and a reasonable bill upon his return.

WHEN TO GO

November and December are the spring rainy months in New Zealand, but they are still the busiest times for newly arrived foreign yachts to haul out and tackle projects. During our 2009 haul out, November and December experienced an unusual drought. Our five weeks of work were delayed by only an intermittent rain shower and one day of more persistent rain.

If not pressed, a cruiser may be better off delaying boat work for economic reasons. The owners of Tracen /, who spent several cyclone seasons in New Zealand, say: “Every season, most boats arrive in November and everyone rushes to the yards to have their long – awaited work done. Suddenly, the yards and boat businesses are at capacity. By mid – March, April and May, the contractors and work crews have slack time. In those months its easier and quicker to get repair work done, and in an effort to keep crews busy, quotes are more aggressive.
OPUA
Opua is the northernmost port of entry in New Zealand, located in the Bay of Islands – the most beautiful cruising grounds of the North Island. The harbor is a snug, well – protected place where a yacht can drop an anchor, take up a mooring or tie to a floating dock in a marina. Opua has yacht facilities and skilled craftsmen capable of doing any work a cruiser could possibly need.

Opua is a large marina complex, but little else. All facilities and the few retail operations are located along a thin strip of land following the waterfront. There is one travel lift in Opua, at Ashbys Boatyard. The 50 met ric ton machine is not wide enough for multihulls, but can pull yachts up to 70 feet, including appendages. A 40 – foot boat would cost around $200 for a haul – out and launch and $20 per day to sit on the hard.

Pahia, a small tourist town, is four miles away from Opua. It has the nearest sizeable grocery and hard – ware store. A $4 van trip will get you there and back. The alternative is a pleasant two – hour tramp along the coastal track. One uphill turn leads to an overlook of the most historically significant waters of northern New Zealand, where early French and British explorers had bouts of friendship and violent disagreements with the native Maoris. The coastal track passes through an interesting rail haul – out facility. Visiting Dougs Boat Yard in Opua, one would think they were in a small sound in Maine. Doug, a transplant from southern California, aims to keep that quiet atmosphere – he has no website and only wants word of mouth customers. His railway can haul a 40 – foot, 15 – ton boat. Careening in the seven to nine – foot tide alongside the dock costs $15. Great for changing propellers, zincs or other quick underwater work.

WHANGAREI

The most widespread exposure for luring cruisers to New Zealand is presented by a consortium of marine establishments in Whangarei, 75 nautical miles to the south of Opua. From seaward, a cruising yacht destined for Whangarei must negotiate a snaking 12 – mile waterway. The inland passage should be navigated at high tide. Although the upper reaches of the channel are dredged annually, a six – foot draft yacht might come close to the mud bottom in several narrow spots.

Americans would consider Whangarei a nice, orderly town with all the benefits – but none of the hassles – of a big city, while New Zealanders consider Whangarei the biggest thing happening north of Auckland. Haul – out and dockage expenses are a little higher than at Opua, but are offset by the convenience of stores, shops and marine facilities. As the owner of the large catamaran Zen stated: “I like having options when working with boat contractors, and the only other place on the North Island that offered this wide selection was Auckland. Price quotes from Auckland proved that Whangarei was more competitive and in tune with the cruiser market.”

In the light industrial area of downtown Whangarei, there are rows of steel – roofed buildings divided into shops for paint, engines, electronics, canvas, anchor galvanizing, nuts and bolts, and anything else you can imagine. Nearly everything in Whangarei is within an easy walk of the town basin and Riverside Drive Marina, which has been owned by Ray Roberts for more than 30 years. One of his first contracts was to build the historic Wanderer V for Eric and Susan Hiscock. Ray is always available to offer advice, and his lift is capable of hauling almost any cruising monohull.

In Whangarei, Dockland 5 and Norsand are farmland – sized facilities that can haul even the widest multihulls. As they are located on the outskirts of town, it would be helpful to have inexpensive transportation. Because of parking, a car could be a burden. A bicycle and good backpack would be a more productive means of getting around town. We bought our $35 15 – speed bicycles at the Friday auction across from the Warehouse department store. Negotiating the roads of New Zealand on a bike proved to be great conditioning for eventually operating a car on the left side of the road without scaring the daylights out of the locals.

When a cruiser is not refurbishing his floating home, he needs to restore his atrophied body. Tramping the scenic route through rainforests and over streams, the Parihaka track leads to a high peak overlooking Whangarei. An out of shape cruiser will puff his way to the summit in 45 minutes, but after hiking the route every other day, the familiar turns will start to blur by in less than 25 minutes.

AUCKLAND

There are some cruisers who feel more refreshed sitting amongst the fluorescent lights and bustle of the city. Auckland has all the glitz and ease one can ask of a city, including a convenient haul – out. Pier 21 is located in the middle of thousands of docked yachts, so there is no need for marinas to solicit foreign business, but international cruisers are certainly welcome.

Hauling out in Auckland costs a little more than hauling out in Whangarei, but hard – working yacht owners are only steps from an endless assortment of marine chandleries and yacht facilities. A bit further on is the Americas Cup Village, which is always a busy attraction. And of course the best view around is from the Sky City tower, where a cruiser can take his first Kiwi leap from a very tall object and feel like he is flying, if only for a little while.

Owners of cruising multihull yachts have a more difficult time hauling out in Auckland. The one facility available is located at Gulf Harbour Marina on the Whangaparaoa Peninsula, 13 nautical miles from downtown Auckland and at least a 40 minute drive by road and bridges.

We are fortunate that Captain Cook and other British explorers stood atop these high hills and bestowed the English language on so many South Pacific islands. Those early explorers made it possible for New Zealand to be the greatest promise land of all.

Rust Not, Want Not

Putting up your engine for a long rest
Sailors in less temperate climates are used to putting their boats to bed for a long winters rest. Putting the engine up for this relatively short storage period is pretty straightforward: change the oil, spray some fogging oil in the intake, kill the engine, pull the impeller, drain the exhaust system, done. With our restoration project of S/V Regina Oceani, though, our new engine was going down for a Rip Van Winkle – esque hibernation of several years. For this period of suspended animation, more consideration must be paid to internal rust and injection system contamination.

Militaries around the world know a lot about long – term layup of engines, especially those that will be stored or transported in marine environments. They have been using VCIs for many decades to prevent internal rusting of engines, and there are plenty of “Mil Spec” numbers to show for it. VCIs can be found in some special – purpose oils such as Shells Ensis motor oil. In fact, when my engine was assembled in England, it was run in with Ensis oil. Unfortunately, to ship the engine, that great product had to be drained. Short of special ordering a 55 – gallon drum of the product, I found absolutely none available in the U.S.

The next alternative my research revealed was VCI oil additives. Caterpillar – you know, the guys who make the huge, yellow, earth – moving equipment – have a product in their catalog. I ordered a quart from my local dealer but it never arrived. Seems the only Cat dealer with any of it in the U.S. was not going to let it go.

More research led me to the Vap – pro “Industrial Assets Preservation System,” which includes every sort of product bearing volatile corrosion inhibitors, from bags for packaging metal parts to foam VCI emitters for your toolbox to VCI spray coatings, and yes, even VCI diesel engine oil additives, cooling system additive, transmission oil additive and diesel fuel additive. I spoke with Frank Berger, the North American representative for Magna Chemical of Canada, who carries the full Vappro line. Anyone with an email address like “FrankVCI” must be pretty serious about this VCI stuff.

Mr. VCI helped me navigate the Vappro selection and led me to Vappro 850 Engine Guard. Frank explained that during long – term storage, it is not the oil that protects your engine from rust, since the oil just drains to the oil pan, but rather it is the vapors given off by the VCI additive in the oil that protect the internal engine parts. Adding one ounce of Vappro 850 to every 10 ounces of oil does the trick. To keep the VCI within the engine, Frank recommended some plastic wrap over the air intake and exhaust. The oil is not thinned by the VCI, so you can run it until your first normally scheduled oil change once you are ready to start the engine up again.

For preserving the diesel fuel pump, lines and injectors against any moisture being attracted to the fuel, I learned a trick from the folks at Beta Marine. They use calibration fluid instead of diesel fuel when they run in a new engine. This clear fluid has the characteristics of “ideal” diesel fuel, yet it does not attract water like diesel. Shops that work on diesel injection pumps and injectors should be using this to test their work and, if nicely asked, might sell you some for about $20 per gallon. To flush your engines fuel system with calibration fluid, first remove your fuel source line and stick it in the calibration fluid. Disconnect the return fuel line and run this into a clear container. Run the engine until the return fuel is nice and clear. Your engines diesel system is now safe from the perils of moisture until you are ready to run it on regular diesel once again.

When we finally splash Regina Oceani, we know that her Beta 50 will be just like new.

Lin and Larry Pardey

The king and queen of cruising dish on romance, encouragement and weathering storms
After more than 45 years together on land and sea, Lin and Larry Pardey know a thing or two about partnerships. Having written 11 books and sailed close to 200,000 miles —much on engineless, self – built vessels – the Pardeys are happy to share what theyve learned over the years in the hopes that they will inspire a whole new generation of self sufficient cruisers.

How did the two of you meet? Lin: I was 20 years old, working in Pasadena, California with $200 in the hank. I decided to find something different to do with my life. I fondly remembered sailing on the lakes of Detroit as a five – year – old. My dad always looked so happy and in control on the boat, and that memory may have been why I wanted to buy a boat of my own. The company I worked for owned a big schooner, and the skipper told me about an eight – foot tender for sale in Newport Beach. While I was down there, I met Larry in a bar near the boatyard. He was playing pool and walked over to ask the skipper, “Hey, Bob – whos the chick?” Then he went back to playing pool.

Larry: Id stolen a couple of Bobs girlfriends before.

Lin: I didnt buy the boat I looked at, but I came back the next day for a lesson. Larry saw me waiting on the docks and asked me out for a cup of coffee. I ran away with him three dates later.

What was your first big outing? Lin: When we met, Larry was a yacht skipper on a 30 – ton ketch, building Seraffyn in his spare time. I asked him to take me on a delivery, but he didnt trust this boat or that crew – there was always an excuse. Finally, one day he asked for my help on a delivery from Ventura, California to Newport Beach. Hed selected the outing very carefully – we were on a beautiful schooner with an offshore Santana wind, beam reaching for two days. It was pretty darn romantic.

How did you and Larry decide to become full – time cruisers? Lin: We never decided to become full – time cruisers. When we were building Seraffyn, we decided we wanted to go sailing in Mexico for four or five months. We set a goal to save money, stopped acquiring things, and sold off all that we didnt need.

Larry: I still resent selling my pickup truck.

Lin: Five months after going to Mexico, wed used up much of the money we had set aside for cruising when someone asked us to do a delivery. We came back with a bunch of money and decided to sail for another five or six months. This was stepping up in life for us! We werent living in the shop anymore; we were sleeping on a gorgeous, brand new boat with the whole world around us – magical. Larry: It was the best year of our lives.

Lin: In the long – term, we dont believe in living on boats its a highly overrated, lousy way to live – but when youre going places, its wonderful. In the winter, we usually moved ashore, which led to some other keen experiences with local folks.

In your book Capable Cruiser, one of the chapters is on 16 ways to encourage your partner t- o share your dream. What have you found to be the most effective approach? Larry: First and foremost, buy them a dinghy. Start small. Lin: Dont present the idea that youre going off sailing forever. Instead, ask them if theres an adventure theyve dreamed of. One sailor I know went to his wife and said, “Youve always wanted to study art in Italy – lets get a boat and sail it there so well have a place to live while you do that.” They ended up sailing for eight years after she finished studying, with her art supporting them. We love sailing and enjoy writing, but what we really live for is going places. Our boat is an adventure machine and a hospitality suite where we can bring people home for dinner.

You and Larry do all of your own weather planning, unassisted by routing services. Do you have any tips for cruisers who would like to be more self – sufficient in that area? Lin: People are not learning about the weather anymore, but rather simply experiencing it. Education should start as soon as you buy your boat. Purchase Instant Weather Forecasting by Alan Watts, get a barometer, and start looking outside every day and comparing what you see and feel with television and Internet forecasts. The more you let people tell you about what the weather should be doing, the less you experience what it actually does. Whatever happens, you need to be able to handle it yourself. Larry: I think it makes wives feel better to listen to someone other than their husbands.

Lin: We look at the charts together, then determine jointly when we want to set sail. One of the things that makes us work is that we equally share the blame and the credit. Larry: We try to make each other look good.

Lin: Marriage isnt a competition – its a partnership.

Your book Storm Tactics has been republished three times with updated tips. Any plans for another version? Lin: The very first version was supposed to be a simple outline to give out at seminars. When people desper – ately wanted to buy this rough little pamphlet for S25, we were amazed. They needed the info, and our format was simple and encouraging. If we learn new things, well update the book again. We just did the latest edition and Im very proud of it. People tell me its easy to read and logical.

Your newest book, Bull Canyon, depicts an adventure on land rather than on sea —a big departure for you. What was the most difficult aspect of land life for you to embrace, and what did you miss the most once you went back to sea? Lin: On land, people expected us to be on time and involved in their lives simply because we were there. Previously, our schedule had been so open. A friend once told me that we were suffering from delayed re – entry syn – drome. We realized that we had the right to say no to a lunch date without an excuse. Sticking to our cruising mindset allowed us to have time with each other and not feel pressured. Life is a lot simpler on a boat. Larry: When we went back to sea, we missed the beauty of the land, the animals, watching the sun change during the day. It was a very natural place; sometimes too natural, as you probably read in Bull Canyon.
Youve become renowned authors in the marine circuit. Any tips for cruisers who aspire to be authors or bloggers?

Lin: The best way to start is by writing short articles for smaller magazines. But first, you have to accept that its difficult to support a cruising lifestyle through writing unless you have a very small boat. For us, a $400 check could be stretched very far; on a larger boat, it might buy dinner or fuel. Writing is a fun way to meet new people and fill rainy days. When we were weather – bound in Malta, Larry had a great idea for an article on rudders. We had the most wonderful time walking around the shipyard, taking pictures of all the different rudders and writing about their advantages and disadvantages. Slogging, on the other hand…

Larry: Weve seen people really embarrass themselves. Lin: Blogging should be approached cautiously, as it can be dangerous and ruin your cruise. People tend to forget that anyone can read a blog post, and its going to be on the Internet for a long time. Writing is largely about editing. Instead of throwing something up on the spur of the moment, think it through, write it, sit on it for two days and then, maybe, put it out there.

How did you choose New Zealand as the place to settle down? Lin: It chose us.

Larry: We wondered why all of our friends had settled there. Lin: We sailed there after many years to rendezvous with Eric and Susan Hiscock, who told us about a tiny island where they spent a winter. Two months later, we sailed into the cove out of a westerly gale and found it to be a perfect hurricane anchorage. Larry thought that if we could find a place with half an acre, it would be ideal. We visited a wreck of a cottage that had been deserted and were foolish enough to think we could take it on. The price was exactly the same amount of money we got when we sold Seraffyn, so we felt it was meant to be. Theres definitely another book in the renovation of that house. Fixing jetties, building seawalls..its been equally fun and tough, but its nice to have a safe cubbyhole with Taliesin sitting there ready to go at any time.

You hold records for “smallest boat to circumnavigate contrary to the prevailing winds around all the great southern capes carrying a nylon drifter” and “only couple to have circumnavigated both east – about and west – about on boats they built themselves, using traditional means of navigation and no engine.” Any plans to seek more records? Lin: We never intended to set records or sail for thrills. We never even set out to go around the world. We set out to enjoy sailing, meet people and rendezvous with friends in another country. If we seek any record, its one that says we lived life to the fullest and shared as much knowledge and assistance as we could. Larry: And had the best parties.